India with kids: what we learned going from Manchester to Kerala and why we would go back tomorrow
We took our teenager on a trip from Manchester to Mumbai, then down to the Kerala coast. Here is the honest version: the costs, the chaos, the elephants, and what our son learned without ever opening a textbook.
Let's start with the question everyone asks. Is India safe for a family? We asked it too, standing in Manchester Airport with just hand luggage and a teenager who had never been to India. The answer is yes.
We flew IndiGo from Manchester to Mumbai, spent one day and two nights in the city, then caught a short Air India hop down to Kochi, just under two hours, before making our way by taxi through Alleppey and on to Varkala (South Varkala Beach). We returned via Thiruvananthapuram back to Mumbai and from there home to Manchester. The whole trip was 12 days over Easter break and it worked beautifully — full of learning, fun and adventure for all of us, and it cost far less than we expected.
Mumbai in a day
We chose to stay in a well known chain hotel which was a little more expensive than local options but offered a chauffeur service and a brilliant breakfast, and was conveniently close to the airport. Local hotels offer even better value, and Uber works perfectly well across the city. Though at around £50 for a full day for the whole family, the hotel chauffeur was not breaking the budget.
One thing worth knowing: unlike many Indian cities, tuk tuks are not allowed in central Mumbai. You will not see them on the streets. Your driver will take you wherever you want, and if you are not interested in shopping stops, make sure you say so upfront. You can do it cheaper than £50 with Ola or Uber, which work perfectly in the city. But having a driver freed us to just look, talk, and absorb. With a teenager in tow, that matters.
In one day we saw the Gateway of India, walked Marine Drive, browsed the Colaba Causeway market, and visited the Chhatrapati Shivaji Maharaj Museum with its extraordinary collection of sculptures and historical exhibits. We drove past the iconic Dhobi Ghat, the world's largest open-air laundry, visible from the road with gleaming tower blocks rising behind it. We finished at Haji Ali Dargah, a stunning white marble mosque built out into the sea on a causeway that floods at high tide. That evening we sat on the rooftop of our hotel and watched the Mumbai sunset, ready for the adventures still to come.
Our son asked more questions in one day in Mumbai than he had in an entire school term. That is not an exaggeration.
We flew from Mumbai to Kochi with Air India, which is worth knowing in advance: Air India departs from the international terminal, while IndiGo uses the domestic terminal and the two are around an hour apart. Plan your transfer time accordingly. We had not booked the train and were not entirely sure how we would get from Kochi to Varkala. If you want the train, remember to pre-book it as availability is limited. But if you are happy to go with the flow, just take a taxi and stop in Alleppey on the way. That turned out to be a much better adventure for us.
The backwaters: even just two hours
From Kochi we took a taxi towards Varkala, around a five hour drive in total, when we realised we would be passing right through the backwaters region which had been on our list all along. So we made a little detour and stopped in Alleppey for a two-hour backwaters boat trip and lunch. We nearly skipped it. We are very glad we did not. Palm-lined canals, fishermen in wooden boats, village life visible through gaps in the trees, complete silence except for the water. The boat costs around £32 and is worth every penny.
If you have more time, overnight houseboat stays are available. Though travelling with a teenager is not quite the same as a romantic break on the water, so two hours turned out to be just perfect for us. Either way, it is something you will not forget.
Varkala: where we stopped rushing
Varkala is a clifftop beach town in southern Kerala and it is genuinely wonderful. Yoga is available two or three times a day at studios all along the cliff, costing between £3 and £5 a session. Surfing lessons run from around £12. A meal for three adults with drinks typically comes to £20 to £30. The Google reviews work well here and we never had a bad meal.
We happened to be there during a Hindu festival. Processions filled the streets: elephants, fire, music, colour, crowds. It was completely unplanned and utterly unforgettable. Kerala is also home to one of the oldest Christian communities in the world, and mosques sit alongside temples across the region. In one small town you can see how three major world religions have shared space for centuries.
Honest note: Some beach areas have a litter problem. It is disappointing when the scenery is so beautiful. We did some litter picking ourselves. It is largely to do with Varkala being popular with local tourists and our visit coinciding with a busy religious festival season. A systemic issue rather than a reason to avoid going, but worth knowing.
Kerala has a wonderfully laid back atmosphere and we saw no begging or extreme poverty throughout our time there. This is no accident. Kerala is governed by the Communist Party of India (Marxist) and in November 2025 declared itself extreme poverty free, the only state in India to achieve this milestone. The difference is visible and it is striking. Even in Mumbai, which has a reputation for stark inequality, we encountered relatively little begging compared to other major Indian cities.
For families travelling with children this matters. It means you can walk around freely, explore markets, and take taxis without the anxiety that can sometimes accompany travel in parts of India. Kerala feels relaxed, safe, and genuinely welcoming.
What it actually costs
Travel day (taxi + boat + food): ~£100
Yoga per session: £3 to £5
Surfing (2 hrs, local school): ~£12
Dinner for 3 with drinks: £20 to £30
Our GLA ratings
Safety and ease: 8.5 / 10
Learning value: 9.0 / 10
Value for money: 9.0 / 10
Cultural experience: 9.5 / 10
Wow factor: 9.0 / 10
Family fit: 9.0 / 10 (for families ready for adventure)
India is a place where you can switch off and on depending on the moment. It offers everything in one place, and always with a smile. The history, the religion, the food, the wildlife, the contrast between rich and poor, the warmth of the people. Our son saw more of the real world in twelve days than he could in a year of geography lessons. And at the same time it is a place where you can truly relax and let the world go by. That is the whole point of Global Learning Adventures, and our Mumbai to Kerala adventure delivered it in full.
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